Take the Tour--Youth Centers in Port-au-Prince!

Last week, I had the opportunity to visit some of our project's youth centers in the greater Port-au-Prince zone, as a part of some communications work I'm doing for IDEJEN. What is IDEJEN might you ask? It's a French accronym for the "Haitian Out-of-School Youth Livelihood Initiative." I jumped on this unique opportunity to see some things "up close and personal," like I knew I would not be able to do on my own....

Quick side note: Creole is so much more efficient than French. Take the above as a case in point. If it were in French, you'd read: "Initiative pour le Developpment des Jeunes en Dehors du Milieu Scolaire." In other words, use as many words as possible to describe something fairly simple by nature.

Anyways, for those of you interested in a little background to the project, here is the scoop: The youth in our program are some of the most disadvantaged you will find anywhere. They are out-of-school young people (ages 15-24) who have had either minimal or no previous education--many experiencing extreme poverty and the lingering effects of political unrest. There are thousands and thousands of them in the country, and the numbers are ever-rising. The IDEJEN project provides them with free access to basic education (basic literacy, numeracy, and life-skills) on top of technical and vocational training (a certain trade) that they can use to find jobs. They are then accompanied for 6 months after graduation with job counseling, mentorship, linkages to internships, and help with small-business development.

(The problem is that the economy is so bad in Haiti, that there are no jobs available in the formal/private sector. Even folks with university degrees have no work. That only leaves the informal sector open our youth, and the possibility of entrepreneurship/creating their own small businesses. IDEJEN is now trying to tailor its trainings to meet the current/ changing demands of the labor market and get these kids into viable jobs.) Sorry for that--I'm done, promise.

So along with me on my journey, were these dashing young men. They are IDEJEN field agents who work directly with the youth. On the right, you have Chandlier, who has officially become one of the coolest people I know. The picture doesn't do it justice, but doesn't he remind you a Rambo action figure of some sort?
The day started off at this center, where we were locating a few of IDEJEN's youth "success stories" (which I'm documenting). "HPCD" stands for Haitian Parnters for Christian Development. They are a local partner organization to IDEJEN.

These guys have graduated the program and become proficient in the sewing industry. They now work full time earning money for the youth centers, and training other youth. The only thing better than one guy that sews...

is two of them. Above, Jean-Erwin demonstrates that "manly men" really do sew. On the production belt today-these handy IDEJEN bags.
I actually really wanted to snag one (i've got a thing for bags and backpacks....second in line to shoes). I even offered to pay, but they were reserved strictly for the youth. I then tried to pull the youth card myself, but had to be reminded that IDEJEN classifies youth as 15-24 years old. Knocked out by a few. In order to fuel up for the rest of the day, we stopped to grab some authentic grub. Here we are in the neighborhood of "Carrefour-Feuilles" or in Creole, "k-fou-fey." (much more fun to say).

I am constantly drawn in by the use of color everywhere. Why not paint your door like a rainbow collidescope?

We then made it to our next youth center to document some more great successes. These kids truly were an inspiration....

You could spot 'em a mile away in their bright orange shirts.....

These guys were learning auto-mechanics as their trade. It was actually quite impressive.

So of course, I had to jump in the picture.
If you keep your eyes peeled, you can spot some wonderful things and people that sometimes slip under the radar.

Stepping inside the center....

I finally found some girls! Haiti produces some of the most amazing artists--these girls were training to become such---and use their skills to earn a living for themselves and their families.
But by far, my favorite were the "house guys."

Demonstrating skillful craftsmenship and a steady hand, Bariffe is now a formal employee for the youth center and makes these clay houses under a contract with the University of Florida.
Again, I wanted to snag one, but would have had to double Florida's prices.
We then headed onto another center about a half-hour drive away, through some pretty interesting terrain...

Two unrelated observations: 1. Sea-foam colored buildings are way up there on my list.

2. The lotto industry comprises up to 50% of the local economy in some areas.
Outside the main doors of the youth center below, you'll already find these young entrepreneurs hard at work, displaying some of their crafts for sale.

I think they must have loved me.....I couldn't pass up the key chains, the smashing Haiti-logo bracelets, or the sandals. It was, after all, for a good cause.

At this center, you could find youngsters learning a variety of trades like painting,

tiling, and plumbing/electricity (picture erased).

The girls were my favs though.

So back in DC before I left, my boss gave me a bag of red, beaded AIDS-awareness pins that had been hand-made by some of our youth in Haiti. I was given strict orders to "take them to church and sell them all " before I left. So I guess that didn't happen. When I unexpectedly came face to face with the exact youth who made them,the guilt started to sink in. So I'll put out this plug now. I've got about a hundred of em in my apartment in DC. If you want one for a $1.50, it's yours!

I caught our driver chillin' with the locals.

So the original girl we had hoped to find and photograph at that center, did not show up that day. I was then taken for a wild-goose chase, into some very "authentic" areas to find this girl at her house.

Past some very colorful characters...
I was then told to put my camera away. and keep a low profile.....so I did (after these next two shots).

After winding our way up the steep alleys, past colorful folk and endless manifestations of urban poverty, we came to Manouchekka's house. Her dad was very welcoming, and proudly invited us into his home, that could barely fit our group of 6. I appreciate seeing people who have nothing, but take pride in what they do have. He earned a living for his family sewing clothes on this machine.

We did meet up with the Manouchekka, and her brother....who took a few of us upstairs on the roof to have a look at the view.

And boy was it a sight.

My tour guides...(and apparent Nets fans)
In the distance (below) is some of the downtown area of Port-au-Prince. Unlike other destinations, in Haiti, ocean-front property is not something to aspire to. The most impoverished and infamous slums in the country are actually located right on the ocean. I was able to visit a youth center in one such area, but was unable to shoot any pictures (If I get ahold of the professional photographer's shots-let's hope he's in a good mood-I'll post 'em next time). But the youth here were such an example of resilience and opptimism in the face of extreme odds.

Sweaty, sunburned, and far too overdressed for the unanticipated treck, I seemed to be attracting some unexpected attention on the roof. So I scooted on out of there. I gather they don't get too many vistors like me up here.

This was the entrance of the last center we visited that day...but the dead camera, once again, did not help.

The kids you meet here, are by far one of my favorite things about this country. You can see a whole word unravel in their eyes. And they take you as you are, nothing more....nothing less.

So, it was a pretty amazing day. Working from the office in DC tells you one side of the story, but being on the ground and seeing how the story actually plays out, is something completely different. Something very refreshing, inspiring, and quite welcomed.....

Thanks for coming along!

Trust Your Gut--some random thoughts on food...and life.

So I've been sick for three days now. You know, the lovely stomach kind. Now this comes as quite a surprise to me. You see, I've got a stomach of steel. I'm the type that laughs in the face of those who acquire traveller's diarrhea.

Well, I guess there's a first time for everything right? When the dizzy spells and profuse indoor sweating set in, I knew my time had come. So the only thing worse than having the "bug," is stewing about how one got it in the first place. After stewing some, I've come up with a take home lesson. Trust you gut. If your gut feeling tells you to stay away from something, by golly, stay away. This applies to life, and to food. Your gut will quite literally thank you.

So I was in the grocery store the other day and noticed something peculiar. The fruits and vegetables were nicely stocked in the refrigerated section, while the yogurt was on the regular shelves, along with the crackers and cereal. Red flag people.
Craving the yogurt, I convinced myself that they must have just brought it out fresh this morning, from the large refrigerator in the back. In my greediness, I stocked my cart and feasted on the warm, creamy delights (after all, everyone else was doing it). Now I'm not blaming the yogurt for my sickness, but it sure couldn't have helped. Life lesson here? You bet.

Or maybe it could have been the fish.......fresh from the Haitian marketplace. We caught our housekeeper cooking it bare, on top of the open gas flame of the stove top (no grill or pan in place). Isn't that supposed to be bad for your health?

But when life gives you fish......you can always make casserole with it (that's what I do best).

Believe it or not, this was actually quite a tasty little mouthful. Fish, and a little creativity can go a long way (as can anything). Although I'm not sure my stomach was so appreciative of my creative culinary expression....

So, I have learned to not underestimate the power of the can (sincerely, there was no pun intended here). Remember, fresh isn't always best (especially in developing countries). Although canned goods, like some paths in life, aren't as exciting, sexy, appealing, or nutritionally beneficial as fresh, they're functional, cheap, and safe. I find safety in canned goods. And these days, that's good enough for me.

Now don't get me wrong, I haven't lost my sense of adventure with food, I've just learned that I'm not as invincible as I once thought. Moderation is the key, in food and in life.

But stewed tomatoes never looked so good...

Moving in!

So the time has come my friends....to leave the walls of luxury and move into our new apartment! Here we are getting ready to load em' up (that's Melanie, my supervisor, and her son Amani---my new surrogate brother, for the time being).

I bid farewell to the pool and to the warm, balmy nights dining by moonlight....
And to my new little friend here.....he is in the process of being adopted, so his new parents have to make frequent trips to Haiti to visit him until the paper work is completed. He is almost three years old, but looks much younger due to illness and malnutrition. He's doing much better now!
Hitting the road is one of my most favorite things to do. Especially when you can do it in style. I never cease to be amused by the various forms of transportation people come up with. In Haiti, this is the most common form---called "tap taps" (although this is not really an authentic one--but you can get the idea).

I'm guessing its because you 've gotta bang on the roof (or give a little "tap") to signal to the driver up front that you want to stop. That's my best guess.
But it you're really lucky, you might get to ride in my new favorite form of transportation. They are more like pieces of art-work on wheels. All hand painted, mind you. (By the way, anybody know who "Pere Tantan" is?)
So we made a pitstop at the grocery store to stock up on some essentials. You know, camping- type food to get us by, until Melanie's shipment from the states (with plates, spoon, the basics) could be unpacked. Although we did hit up the super-nice, ex-pat store, we also stopped at this little joint to get beverages.

As you can tell, it was looking a little sparse. Sadly, this is the reality here though. Haiti has to import absolutely everything for the time being, and sometimes this leads to problems in the grocery aisles (by the way, there was no ice-cream in the ice-cream box, I had to satisfy my fix elsewhere).

So here we are entering my new neck of the woods. This is the view you see while driving down the road to our apartment.

While I was out walking here yesterday (it is safe right around my house--don't worry), I met up with some more new friends. Although they spoke Creole, and I spoke warped French, we still managed to communicate and have a good laugh. Honestly, I can still not figure out the head-water balancing act. Something to aspire to I guess.
The people here are definatley full of life and are so fun to be around (tip: if you want to make instant friends, show your camera to little kids. This group got the biggest kick out of having their picture taken. I think they thought they were going to end up in some American magazine).
Ok, so I've realized why everybody drives SUVs. It's out of necessity. The roads here are pretty rough--right by our driveway you will find not a pothole, but a large indentation in the earth. Trust me, this picture does not do it justice. If you get a running start, and the right angle, you can get over it pretty well.
It's people like these fine, young men who make it easier for me to sleep at night. There is an emabassy of somesort right by our apartment, so we get double-duty protection. I swear, more people find jobs here in Haiti in the security and personal-driver businesses than any other place I've been.

Home sweet home.

Time to unpack the shipment.....
Me and a local friend, Ketty, spent an afternoon helping Melanie tear into boxes and get somewhat squared away with the bare essentials (ie, the tv, large-stuffed dog, and decorative pillows). The lanterns and large water buckets would also come in handy, I would soon discover. Why might you ask? Although I got my own bathroom, it did not come with light, or a flushing toilet. Easily solved. Shower by moonlight, and dump a bucket of water down the toilet. Did you know it makes it flush?!!
For those of you who know me well, you'll understand the great joy I felt when discovering I had my own room here (what can I say, I like my space!) I do however get frequent visits from my newest pal, Amani. He's just starting to get used to me, and finds great entertainment in running in and out of my room.

This is the kind of shot you post when you know your mom is reading your blog. I've got a virtual pharmacy on my dresser--I wonder what the housekeeper thinks.
Behind our apartment, I've discovered "heartbreak hill." (picture does not do it justice). This is a great little spot to let out some of your pent-up energy. Try a couple of sprints up this bad boy and you'll be feeling if for a few days.

One of the hardest things for me here is getting used to the lack of physical activity in my day. Since you can't really go out walking around town, and are constantly carted from point A to point B (literally door to door) in a car, sometimes you just want to move. After several hill climbs, I also discovered "the stairs." I love em' and I hate em. But my newfound stairclimbing hobby did lead me to my most newest "find-"

The view on top of our roof...

I'm usually up here at sunset every day after finishing "the blessed stairs." It is the most incredible panoramic view....When I'm up here, everything is ay-okay.

Last, but certainly not least......here's a little introduction to the culinary adventures I am experiencing on a daily basis. Our housekeeper, Joanne, prepares dinner every night. When I say adventure, I mean it. But we all know, I'm not one to shy away from a new food. Here was her latest creation...

One question:

Why don't we use this little device in the States? I'm going to have to pick me up one for sure.
So I usually take whatever main dish Joanne prepares, and add some of favorite additions to make my infamous, "anything goes -in-or-out- casserole." Mix, and stir, and you're in for a treat. Here was my latest creation: "Goat Hash."

Goat Hash is an ingenious culinary innovation, and a new personal favorite. Watch out for hard pieces of bone and cartilage though.

Be sure to stay tuned next time for more recipes, tips, and lessons from the kitchen!

Thanks for coming along with me for the big move in. Coming next week (or whenever internet is good), a slice of working life and my trip around Port-au-Prince to visit our project's various youth centers within the zone. It was a rip-roaring, and very authentic good time!